MapSource
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Google Maps Terrain
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Up at 6am. Hiking by 7am. Fastest camp breakdown yet!
As I hiked the 2 miles to the VVR Ferry, I was met by a member of a
trail crew who was about to close the trail. They were going to start
blasting with dynamite and I just made the cutoff time. I passed the
crew of 8-10 people who were carving steps in a granite boulder using
dynamite.
It didn't take long to get to the Ferry site, and I was the first one
there. I enjoyed the quiet morning sunrise, and as time got closer to
the Ferry pickup, others started to arrive. I met Pipi Longstocking and
her guy friend, veteran long distance hikers. Pipi has over 10,000
miles to her hiking credit. They are 30+ mile per day hikers. As the
Ferry pulled up, Sean (the hiker I gave my chapstick to) got off the
boat. We talked for a bit, he had decided to take a day off at VVR and
was now continuing down the JMT. I met some other fellow JMT hikers,
Richard, who was doing the JMT for the second year in a row, and Al and
Sally were also heading to VVR for a rest day.
Sunrise |
John Muir Wilderness |
Edison Ferry Landing
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The
boat ride was significant for me psychologically. It took me away from
the trail and into civilization. As I looked back at the mountains I
had just descended from, and also at the mountains still to be
explored, I decided then that I would be back.
I needed to come back. This was unfinished business. The trail was not
ready to release its call nor its hold on me.
When we reached VVR, I made my way to the store/cafe. I know there are
some folks who hate VVR, and others who love it. I fell into the 'love
it' crowd. It is built to cater to the hiker. Yes, you pay for the
services, and yes, the tab can get steep if you let it. But I loved the
rustic charm, the great attitude of the staff, and the chance to rest
and relax with other JMT hikers.
I had a room reserved, and it was ready, so I started my tab, checked
in and hauled my gear to my room. I picked up my jump box that I had
mailed from Yosemite 10 days earlier. After a long, hot shower, and a
sinful nap in the comfy bed, I spent the rest of the day/evening eating
at the cafe, and visiting with Richard, Al and Sally. They tried to
talk me into finishing the trail with them. Al volunteered to be "Dr
Al" and call my work to explain the horrible trail disease that I had
picked up that would delay me for another 8-10 days!
I put any remaining supplies in the hiker barrel at VVR, including my
Dri-Ducks rain/wind jacket and pants. A few minute later, as we were
sitting and chatting, another thru hiker introduced herself. Michelle
was leaving on the 4:45 Ferry to continue her JMT hike, but was worried
because she had lost her wind jacket yesterday on the trail. Must be
good trail karma. I told her that I had JUST put my Dri-Ducks in the
barrell. She quickly ran over to the barrell and grabbed the gear.
VVR Ferry
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VVR Ferry
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Off to VVR
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I did laundry at
the machine, and while it was drying, I visited with Richard and the
VVR chef, Byron at his trailer. Interesting guy. Totally different
perspective on life than what I am used to. It made me think about the
'race' and what is important.
The food at VVR was consistently good. Olive, the waitress, was an
opinionated and outspoken young lady. I found her charming. Olive was
also my driver on the 3 hour drive down to Fresno the following day.
VVR has a shuttle service that I took advantage of, as it allowed me to
start and end my trip in Fresno.
I spent a restful night sleeping in a REAL bed (except for the bear crashing through the trash
can outside my room and the owner, Jim, running the bear off!)
The next morning, I said goodbye to my fellow hikers as they boarded
the Ferry, and stood for a few minutes after they had gone, looking
back towards Bear Ridge, where they were soon going to be hiking. My
turn to finish this journey will be here soon enough. Time to head back
to civilization.
Jim, the owner tallied up my tab and I was off with Olive on the
winding, narrow road back to hot, crowded Fresno. With my decision to
be back here next year, I was able to fend off the post-trail
depression and start thinking of next year!
Just a few more steps
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VVR Store and cafe
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VVR rooms
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Saying goodbye
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I'll Be Back!
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What worked, and what didn't:
Tarptent Moment - 5 stars. Lightweight, easy to setup, roomy for a 1 person tent. I will use it again next year on my full JMT hike.
Steripen - while
I had it, I loved it. Allowed me to carry less water than using
tablets, so the extra weight was more than offset. I would drink a
fresh liter at each stop, and fill up a liter for the trail. No need to
wait for a chemical reaction for safe water. My Steripen worked 100% of
the time reliably. I have already picked up a replacement.
Caldera Keg-H
alcohol stove. - mixed feelings. I love the light weight, and the quiet
burn adds to the solitude and peace of the trail. I did have some
trouble with the dovetail closure. The aluminum got bent after multiple
uses, and became hard to slide closed. I worried that the sharp edges
would carve some skin off my fingers if I slipped while trying to get
the thing closed. I will switch back to my MSR Pocket Rocket next year
since there is less weight penalty over alcohol for a longer trip.
Montbell SS #3
- Still love this bag. The stretch factor made a huge difference for
me. I could move from back to side and never felt trapped. It works
down to its stated rating of 30 degrees, but I underestimated the
effect of my calorie decefit on my core temperature. On a 2-3 day hike
I would be fine down to 25 in this bag, but I will pick up a Montbell
15 degree bag for next year. Being warm on a cold night is worth the
extra 8 ounces.
Spot 2 - worked consistently. For my wife's peace of mind, it was worth carrying the weight.
ULA Circuit - 5
stars. Perfect pack for me. Internal frame, JUST big enough for my
Bearikade, rugged, light. I love the elastic front pocket. I can grab
my water bottle without taking off the pack, which is a big plus for
me.
Bearikade Weekender
- Bear can, sitting stool, sponge bath extradorinaire. If you have to
carry a bear can, this is the one. Yes, it's expensive, but much
lighter than the alternatives. Reasonable rental rates for JMT thru
hikers at www.bearikade.com.
REI Storm proof matches - 1 star. Seemed like a great idea, but they just didn't want to light. I will bring 2 Bic lighters next time.
Alex the Black guide
- 4 stars. Perfect for actually carrying on the trail. Leave all the
other guides and maps at home after using them for planning. Only
downside for me was the scale of the elevation profiles made me
understate the elevation changes.
Sprint Aquatics
- these fall apart after a while. They only provide minimal protection
for stepping on sharp objects. At this price point, disposable is OK. I
will continue to use the Sprint Aquatics on shorter trips, however they
won't last for my JMT thru hike (21 days) next year. I went ahead and
purchased a pair of Crocs, and also a pair of Vincere Grip socks.
I will trial both during this next year and make a final decision
before my JMT trip in 2011. I really hope the Vincere Grip Socks work
out. The Crocs are heavy...
DriDucks rain/wind gear
- another light weight disposable piece of gear. I find they work for a
wind layer, and do a good job shedding rain. At this price point, I am
fine with replacing after each long trip.
Boots - Danner Radical 452 GTX Hiker. I
realize boot are probably the most personal piece of gear a person
owns, and what works for me will in all likelihood not work for you,
but these boots have been SO great I must mention them. NO blisters,
light (for a boot), sturdy, comfortable. What a relief. I have tried
many boots with little success until I finally found these.
Pop tarts. Heavy, but i could eat them!!! Will bring one for every day on my 2011 trip.
Videos from Day 10
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Day 10 morning
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VVR Ferry
2MB
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Additional pictures from Day 10
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